You’re not alone in the skepticism, or perhaps even grudge, you obviously have for Philadelphia. I’ve been here for about 6 years and spent the first half with a fairly similar attitude. On a first impression, it is a place easy to write off. After a weekend of liberty bells, cheesesteaks, and numerous encounters with the local homeless….it is just easier to insist NYC, DC, or Boston as superior. But it’s not a city that can be understood or simply visited in a weekend. This attitude by most of the weekend visitors keeps it off the map and maintaining a certain “freshness” only the seasoned locals can truly appreciate. Anyone that lives here will be quick to explain the city of brotherly tough love mantra.
I found a few quotes you’ve given on Philadelphia during a book signing back in 2007. Sure, it’s easily generalized as the empire of Stephen Starr, and don’t get me wrong his restaurants are often delectable. However, the diva personalities and expensive tabs often found at those restaurants are not where the true Philadelphia lies.
Philadelphia, in comparison to Boston, New York and Washington DC, is the most affordable major city in the northeast. A place where you don’t need to shell out $1,000 a month for a closet sized studio apartment. Historically a working class city, this dynamic pushes a lot of the most well to-do out to the various suburbs, and leaves a total mish-mash of people inside, and along with it an exquisite blend of cultures, histories, demographics, and of course foods.
Philadelphia is often categorized according to is gridlike North/South/East/West quadrants, but often overlooked by the weekender are the cultures that are found in between Ben Franklin’s gridlines. The rich melting pot of people that have settled here, literally since the inception of the United States, has left some of the most incredible sub-cultures found anywhere in any major city in the world.
The large populations of Irish and Italians that still command respect in the city have maintained the infamous Italian Market. This is a place where any morning of the week, the homemade pastas and fresh vegetables could only be rivaled by the imported cheeses and private butchers next door.
Perhaps you are looking for some traditional German fare? There is surely no where else to go other than Brauhaus Schmidt. Less than 6 months old, this traditional bier haus features 20+ imported draft beers from the mother country and 80+ bottles. This is all in addition of course to the authentic German food of the German chef and owners.
A short 15-minute walk north and you are in one of the largest and best China Towns of any city in the U.S. Hosting a blend of Vietnamese, Malaysian, Korean, and Chinese restaurants over a 12 block area, authentic and cheap eats are available round the clock. Restaurants such as Sang Kee serve fresh peking duck, braised squid, and slow cooked sweet and sour pork as good as any I’ve ever had, right next to the likes of Pho Cali, serving consistent and authentic pho and bun.
Then there is the Reading Terminal Market, a love affair location of any foodie I’ve ever met, and personally my favorite establishment of eats in the city. Featuring baked goods brought into the city from nearby Mennonite sects to fresh octopus to authentic soul food this daily market has enough content in and of itself for an entire episode.
Northern Liberties, a revitalized part of the city defined by it’s hipster and scenester culture has become a booming underground of individually held eating establishments. Known for it’s home cooked style, sustainable and fresh produce, and cheap, local brews, it is a perfect example of all that is still going on in this city. Take The Piazza for example, a nearly year old plaza that was designed to emulate a traditional Roman piazza, and is surrounded by bars and restaurants like Rustica, a well known gourmet pizza shop.
And what are good eats without good drinks? The recent Franklin Mortgage Investment Company is an underground abode painted all black and in the appearance of a run down office; but hark, upon opening the door you are welcomed to one of the most legitimate speakeasy’s the U.S. has seen since the 1920’s. They have hired nothing but the Einsteins of the alcohol world and have a menu full of fine cocktails from eras past.
So I can only hope that by this point you are at the least asking yourself, “Is there enough for a show in Philadelphia?”. As the 5th largest city in the country, I challenge you that it at the least deserves a shot. You better than any know that a city is best seen through the eyes of a local, and Philadelphia is no exception. So join me and see all we have to offer.
Andy Hagerman
1 comment:
That's really, really, really well written dude.
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